A casual gents jacket

A casual gents jacket

A casual gents jacket

I’ve had a go at self drafting a jacket with the help of a friend before, but to be honest I found it a bit more tricky than I thought I would, mainly because there’s a fair amount to a mans blazer, thats why I chose to search for a modern gents jacket pattern.  After some research I came across the Burda Mans 6872 pattern which was just the look I was after.

Several weeks ago I’d picked up some lined denim during one of my recent shopping escapades to Goldhawk Road. It’s a mid shade denim with a olive cotton bonded to the wrong side.  It was something I’d never seen before, and at a haggled £9/m I already knew what I wanted to do with it.

Now this time I’m not going to show you all the in’s and out’s of this make, I fear I’d bore you into submission. Instead I’m just going to show case the final jacket.

I chose to follow the Option A on the pattern pack, this has a curved hem finish and a 2 button finish.  The style I was going for wasn’t so much the clean crisp finish, but more of a casual denim blazer, something I felt the bonded lining could give me.

Instead of lining the jacket, I purchased 8m of lively paisley bias binding and decided I’d do something called Hong-Kong seams. Essentially this process entails binding the stitched seam’s raw edges on the inside of the jacket. It can give a great looking and stylish finish to a garment. The seams can either be pressed to one side and bound in one go or by pressing the seam open and overlapping the binding on each seam edge, then edge stitching in place. Either way I think it gives a great look.

I’m still a little undecided on the pockets, as theres no lining to capture the inner bag I’ve chosen not to do the welted style, I’m contemplating putting on some patch pockets, but the beauty is I can see how the jacket looks first before I decide.

After I’d made it up, and applied the binding to the seams I washed the jacket on a low temperature, just to relax it a bit. Thank goodness I did it now and not earlier, as the lining that was once bonded to the denim had decided it was going to part company. It gave a softer less rigid feel to the jacket and definitely helped with the casual look I was going for.

Well I hope you like it, I certainly do, and what a great gents jacket pattern, something that I’m definitely going to make more of.

I think for the next one I’ll dart the waist in and slim the arms down a bit more.

Matt Chapple, winner of the Great British Sewing BeeMatt x

The stitcher. A magnet for foolery & prankster at heart. Loves being creative, whether with some wood and a saw or with a needle and thread. Attempts to disguise his past time activities as manly pursuits, but is actually pretty handy at sewing!

4 Comments

  1. Trish 2 years ago

    Nice make. I am about to do an informal jacket using a green linen (actually a 1980s suit outfit I am recycling) and the seam idea will be ideal ! The pattern (free with Sew magazine) is unlined and I was wondering what to do to make the inside a bit more interesting! Great post!

    • Author
      Matt 2 years ago

      So please that I could help Trish, love the fact that you are upcycling an old suit. Let me know how it turns out…good luck!

  2. Lara 2 years ago

    That looks fab! I love the binding instead of lining and the fabric is a great bargain!

    • Author
      Matt 2 years ago

      Thanks Lara, the bias binding is my favourite element of the jacket, I might even start wearing it inside out :-)

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